Lazy Days

Our first week in Provence has had its ups: the market, music, great food, and wonderful walks – and downs: a car crash, a leaky hot water heater, and a broken refrigerator. We have been enjoying just getting to know St. Remy. Two years ago we were living about a kilometer out of town and didn’t often walk around the town. There is something going on here every day. Although we have the tourist information we often find events and displays just by walking around. I’ve watch local folks playing boules, listened to more impromptu music, found markets on days when there is no public market listed, and gotten to know the locals:

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This fellow lives just a little ways from us. He doesn’t talk much, but then my French isn’t great.

We drove to the Camargue one day. Our intent was to visit the salt works and some places there that we remembered from two years ago. However, when we stopped at the first site we discovered that we had forgotten mosquito repellent. That is a terrible mistake in the Camargue. We did drive around a bit after that, but didn’t get out to walk around. With the air conditioning on the mosquitoes inside the car went into hibernation and we were safe from attack. Lesson learned – we bought a second bottle of repellent and now both carry one. We will return to the Camargue next week.

Today we went to Lac de Barrage, a lake in Les Alpilles above St. Remy. This lake was formed by the Romans 2000 years ago when they dammed a small stream. Their dam still provides the foundation for a higher dam that extended the Roman’s work about 120 years ago. The lake is surrounded by beautiful cliffs, wonderfully crooked trees, and lots of people on this day. The area has been closed much of the time since June due to the danger of forest fires. An open Saturday brought out visitors.

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Yes, we also have done some painting and drawing.

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Jean tried out her new easel. It’s not as convenient as the one that broke, but it will do until we return to Seattle.

Cousin Judi will be joining us on Tuesday evening, just in time for the Wednesday market. She’s been on a tour in Spain and Morocco and we look forward to hearing about it.

Paul

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Quick Sketches

Here are four quick sketches of the musicians at the market yesterday. No single sketch took more than a minute due to crowds of people milling around me. The jazz trio were surrounded by listeners. The woman singing in the middle of the traffic island had cars zipping past on all sies. It certainly makes me reduce the drawing to basics.

Paul

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Lentils and Sausage for Brenda

Friend Brenda asked for the recipe for our dinner tonight. I will attempt to oblige. Of course the most difficult part of the recipe is obtaining saucisse de Morteau. This is a sausage from eastern France. It’s a basic garlic sausage with one unique twist – it is smoked over a conifer and juniper fire.

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We have tried some other smoked sausages from various European butchers in Seattle, but none duplicate the flavor. The closest I could recommend is a good smoked kielbasa. With that caveat, here’s the basic idea.

In a large heavy pot (I prefer cast iron) heat some oil over a medium heat. (Please don’t ask for measurements!) Peel and quarter three medium yellow onions and put those quarters in the oil while you proceed. Wash and cut into large pieces 2 large carrots. Add those to the pot and stir. The onions will begin to carmelize a bit. Add two or three celery stalks, but don’t cut them up too much. Clean and peel one whole garlic bulb, leaving the cloves as whole as possible and add those to the pot with a good dose of herbs de Provence (2-3 tablespoons at least). Add two cups of puy lentils (they are small green lentils, but the real ones come from the Puy region of France where lentils have appellations just like wine). Our Seattle friends can buy them at PCC.

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Stir this for a couple of minutes to mix the flavors and continue the carmelization. Next add liquid to cover the veggies – this can be red wine, broth, or water. It depends upon your tastes. We prefer about 1/3 red wine and the rest chicken broth, but have had excellent results with red wine and water. You will want about 1 1/2 pounds of sausage. If it is a large long single sausage it may need to be cut to fit in the pot. However, the less you cut it the more juice it retains during cooking. Turn the heat up high to start it boiling. When it’s simmering nicely turn the heat to low and go drink the rest of that bottle of red wine you opened. I let it cook for anywhere from 45 minutes to 1 1/2 hours, depending upon the doneness of the lentils and carrots. If the carrots are in big chunks they need to cook longer. Lentils seem to vary and I think it has to do with how dried they are. This should not be a soup, you want just enough liquid to cook the lentils and carrots. Sometimes I have to add a bit while cooking. Keep an eye on it.

When all looks done, served in shallow bowls with a baguette to sop up the juices. Be careful when you cut into those sausages because they will spit at you! More red wine makes a wonderful accompaniment. The baguette is useful to clean your bowl for a refreshing salad with vinaigrette.

After the salad, clear the table, do the dishes, and take a walk to the nearest glace stand for some salted caramel glace! At least that’s what we did. 🙂

Enjoy,

Paul

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New Car and Market Day

Late yesterday afternoon we took a taxi to Avignon to pick up our new car, courtesy of the Hertz roadside assistance. We now have a small Ford with a backup warning sensor that beeps to tell me how close I am to objects behind me! That is convenient for parking in our small garage space.

On the way home we decided to stop in Noves to see if we could find an art store that we had learned of. It only took one stop to ask a friendly Frenchman and we were at the store. This was an important stop because the leg on Jean’s easel had snapped the day we were painting at St. Paul. After carefully weighing the options (none were as good as the broken easel) she chose a lightweight one. Of course Jean also found a few pastels that she wanted to add to her box. Soon we were home to supper…chicken made with some of the harissa sauce we bought in London with raw fried potatoes and onions!

Our house:

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Today was market day in St. Remy. We hit the streets at about 9:30 and found most stalls up and running. It’s good to get there early if you want to shop. Once the tourists hit town at about 11:00 the market is quite crazy. Then it’s more about people watching than shopping. After doing our shopping we went back to browse and people watch.

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Musicians set up in a few places where the vendors and crowds had left a little room. Our favorite was a jazz, blues, country trio just around the corner from our house. We listened to them for 30 minutes or so.

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In mid-afternoon I took a walk to see some of the Van Gogh trail and look at the aftermath of the market. It was totally gone and cleaned up by 2:30! On a busy street corner a woman had parked her motorcycle in the middle of the roundabout, unloaded a portable sound system, and was singing chanteuse songs to passers by. When traffic stopped she would sidle up to the car window and sing to the drivers. What fun!

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Finally, here is the painting I did at St. Paul de Mausole two days ago.

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Tonight it is saucisse de morteau, lentils, and veggies for dinner! This is a recipe I learned from JP, so I hope he is envious of our vittles. See you soon!

Paul

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First Days in Saint Remy: Art, Painting, and Crunch

Sunday was the Route des Artistes in St. Remy. This is a monthly event where artists from throughout France (and even some from Spain and Belgium) come to show and sell their works. We met some wonderful artists along the way.

Christian Gros is a fine pastel artist whose paintings of the Luberon are beautiful. He paints scenes near his home. We chatted for some time and then I wrote down our own blog address for him. Click on his name to see his blog and more of his paintings.

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Chantal Gres’ works caught our attention immediately when we approached her stand. Her vibrant colors and energetic brush strokes are fantastic. We loved talking to her about her art.

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We arrived with the famed mistral blowing. It appears as if it may continue all week. That means clear skies, pleasant temperatures, and very high winds.

Yesterday we went out to do some painting ourselves. Unfortunately, due to high winds and dry conditions Les Alpilles were closed to access because of fire danger. They are likely to have limited access all month. Therefore, we parked at St. Paul de Mausole, the asylum where Van Gogh was hospitalized. The grounds are beautiful and have views of the mountains from which we were excluded as well as some of the Roman ruins that aren’t in the pine woods of the mountains.

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We both did some painting and met two oil painters working on the grounds. Robert Crombie and Lisa were also working on some beautiful bright depictions of the mountains and olive trees.

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After a stop for some groceries our day came to an abrupt end. I was on my way to park our car when a young man rear ended me when I stopped for some pedestrians. There were no apparent injuries and we went to the gendarmarie to report the accident. However, the gendarmes politely told me that I should not drive the car more than slowly and for only a little distance to get it out of their parking lot. The rear end was rubbing on the tire. Therefore, the tow truck has taken our car, but we are currently without wheels, awaiting a return call from Hertz. What suspense! Hopefully we can arrange a new car with little difficulty. The closest Hertz office is in Avignon so we don’t know how that will work. Two years ago it took us five days to get a replacement car when our car died.

Stay tuned,

Paul

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Final Days in Montcabrier

Today is our last day at Atelier de la Rose in Montcabrier. This peaceful place is a wonderful buffer from the excitement and activity of London and Paris. We have had the opportunity to relax and paint, getting into a slower rhythm. A few days ago we hiked the circuit of  valley below the village. It involves hiking down a steep trail from the village, across the valley floor, passing the soccer field, and then traversing the hillside we have been viewing from our patio. The return is through a beautiful forest on the valley floor and then a long, slow climb back to the village.

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We also took a trip to Chateau Eugenie for some wine. This was the wine we had on the day Sally took us to Pech Merle and Saint-Cirq-Lapopie. It was so good we wanted to taste their full line and get some for the next two months.

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Finally, there has been time for painting as well. Here are a couple of interpretations of the hill towns in this area during the stormy weather we have had off and on this week.

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Tomorrow we are off to Provence!

Paul

 

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Tournon-d’Angenais

Yesterday we took a little trip to a medieval town call Tournon-d’Angenais. The old bastide village sits atop a high hill with views in all directions. Although there aren’t many buildings surviving from the middle ages, the village has created a wonderful garden to commemorate all those who have died in war. Each war from WWI through Indochina and Algeria has a plaque outlining French involvement and the numbers killed and wounded, both civilian and military. The final couple of plaques ask what about tomorrow, is peace possible? Looking out at the beautiful French countryside one must hope it is.

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Peace,

Paul

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Pech Merle and Saint-Cirq LaPopie

Yesterday Sally took us on a day-long tour. We began with a 1.5 hour drive basically along the River Lot, through Cahors, and then over to the town of Cabrerets. This is the location of Pech Merle, one of the renowned prehistoric caves in France. Pech Merle is known for the paintings of spotted horses and people and it didn’t disappoint. However, photos are not permitted, so you will have to take my word for it and visit their web site. The cave itself is as interesting as the paintings due to the magnificent formations of calcite. There are the usual stalactites and stalagmites, but also huge discs, small “pearls”, and translucent sheets that look a bit like streaky bacon. It is a veritable wonderland underground. It is no wonder that our ancestors chose this place in which to draw.

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Following our tour of the cave we drove to Saint-Cirq LaPopie, a beautiful medieval village set high on a cliff above the Lot River.

This town drew post-Impressionists like Henri Martin and was the home of French poet and founder of surrealism Andre Breton as well as communist writer and politician Charles Rappoport. We had lunch at a wonderful little hotel/restaurant,Le Sombral. Sally had their special lamb, Jean the cheese plate, and I had the duck, including foie gras and jambon de canard – duck ham. One of the adventures of travel is to eat local delicacies. We were not disappointed. Jean and I also had glasses of Chateau Eugenie, a Cahors wine that was wonderful!

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After lunch we strolled through the narrow ancient lanes along the steep hillside. The entire town is like a museum with few people living in the village year round. Houses and shops are only open for the tourist season.  We were fortunate to meet Danielle Mary, a wonderful painter. We enjoyed talking about art and painting together. Take a look at her website: D. Mary.

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Saint-Cirq-Lapopie would be an interesting place to visit in the off season. On this visit, however, the rain began to fall and we abbreviated our walk to return to the car park and drive home. When the sun shone briefly we took a little detour to a picturesque village, St. Vincent, to grab some quick photos. This charming village lies on a small stream just a few hundred meters from its confluence with the Lot.

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The main storm arrived just as we were eating dinner in Sally’s kitchen. Wind, rain, and hail pelted us all night.

Paul

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Castelfranc

This morning we went to  Castelfranc, a small town on the Lot River. We had gone there for dinner in 2013 and briefly visited a garden in the town center. The Garden of the Senses is a wonderful medieval style garden next to a small stream that flows through the town on its way to the Lot.

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We remembered many beautiful small views that would be ideal for painting. However, we wanted some morning photos. It would be too hot throughout the day to stand and paint.

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We also explored the church and found beautiful stained glass, an ancient wind up clock that worked on the face of the church until 1964, and the familiar architecture of French Catholic churches.

We drove back on the south side of the Lot River through vineyards and a dozen small villages. It is a small road, but less busy than the highway on the north side of the river. The grapes are hanging heavy on the vines and the walnuts are getting plump in the late summer sun. It looks like a good harvest this year.

Back in our relatively cool studio by 1:00 PM for lunch and a lazy afternoon. Perhaps some painting or drawing.

Paul

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Art in Montcabrier

Here are a few pieces I’ve done while at Montabrier.

Fruit

Fruit

Trumpet Vine

Trumpet Vine

Pencil Drawing of Saint Avit

Pencil Drawing of Saint Avit

It’s hot and humid here, about 90/90. Monday we will be going to Peche Merle Cave to see some prehistoric art. At least the cave will be cool!

Paul

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