Happy Birthday in Collioure

Posted on October 27, 2015 by Paul

I’ve had a very nice birthday in Collioure. Jean and I spent a lazy morning in the apartment and then took a walk along the waterfront. Once again the rollers were coming in from far out to sea.

Of course the big waves bring out the commandos for their kayak landing training. People line the quay to watch. We were among them.

On the way around Chateau Royale the waves washed over the quay. By the time we reached the inner harbor we were wet to the knees and our shoes sloshed with each step. It was time for a stop at Les Templiers for a late afternoon libation and a bit of drying out. We had a drink and enjoyed the artwork on the wall.

Once back home Jean whipped up a delicious Thai Curry with chicken, mushrooms, peppers, and coconut. Served with Camargue rice from Provence it was a fine birthday dinner.

Paul

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Catalan Coast By Water

Posted on October 26, 2015 by Paul

Yesterday afternoon we made our way to the quay to meet the sightseeing boat. These daily trips go along the coast in places where we have been on land. It was great fun to see the same area from the water.

Port Vendres Fishing Boats and Houses

Port Vendres Fishing Boats and Houses

Large Seiner

Large Seiner

Of course one of the primary attractions are the cliffs. When standing atop them, looking out to sea, one has a sense of height but no sense of the rock beneath your feet. It’s quite imposing from the boat.

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And there were sea caves that our captain insisted on getting close to. While in here they chummed the water and thousands of small fish swarmed the boat. The glass bottom panels enabled us to see these beauties, but photos were not so easy.

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It was a great late afternoon adventure. Today the clouds have descended and it is raining. We expect rain for the next 2-3 days…just like Seattle!

Paul

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New Friends

Posted on October 25, 2015 by Paul

Yesterday we took a stroll around town. It was a warm day, but a bit overcast. The streets are full of people because it is a weekend and Collioure is a popular get-away. However, we were able to find some empty spaces in the small back streets.

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We sat on the quay for a time to watch the people and boats. Much to our surprise our new found friends from our hike to the windmill, Marie and Jean-Marie, walked down the beach. Jean called to Marie and they joined us for another crazy conversation bouncing among English, French, and Spanish to communicate with each other. What a fun couple! We learned that Marie was born and raised in the small town near Les Orgues where we visited on our previous post. Jean-Marie was from Prades, a larger town not far from there. Although they live near Toulouse, they make it a point to return to Catalonia where they feel at home. We have each made a commitment to learn the other’s language better and meet again on our next trip to France. Jean-Marie has promised to share some great paella with us.

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Marie told us she had been watching an artist sketching on the beach near us. She was quite impressed by the drawing. Within minutes a woman approached and Marie greeted her. This was the artist – Sylvie Batlle! She was born and raised in Collioure, but lived in England for 20 years. Therefore, the communications became easier. Sylvie is an art therapist as well as fine artist. The five of us chatted for a bit and then Sylvie invited us to come to her atelier to see her work.

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Sylvie’s atelier, Grain de fable, is in the same small shop that her parents ran as a take-out eating place when she was young. The basement kitchen has been converted to her studio. Her mother was tending the shop when we entered and called Sylvie up from the basement when we asked for her. If you click on the link above you will get to a page with some of her paintings at the bottom of the page. Click on the small images to see enlargements. This is a small portion of what she has in the atelier. Her work varies from figurative and realistic to abstract. Every piece has a liveliness that captures your interest. The abstracts are mostly done with a base of sand mixture to create texture and then painted over with either acrylic or oil paint.

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Sylvie is another of the amazing artists we have met on this trip. Her warmth and passion for creativity are an inspiration.

Paul

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Les Orgues

Posted on October 23, 2015 by Paul

Yesterday we experienced an extreme change in the weather while out walking on the waterfront. Strange clouds formed over the Pyrenees, the wind switched dramatically from onshore to offshore in a matter of minutes, and the resulting gale whipped the palm trees and waves crashed into the pier with renewed ferocity.

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One result of this weather switch was that today dawned bright and clear with no wind. This was the day to visit Les Orgues, a site we learned about from brochures in our apartment. When the Pyrenees were first formed (30-40 million years ago) they stretched all the way to Provence. However, millions of years later the east central portion collapsed, creating an inland sea that flooded, silted, and created sandstone. When that was uplifted the erosion began. (That’s the abbreviated version of the geologic history in the guidebook.) The result is a unique area of hoodoos and slot canyons carved into this very soft rock. Who would have thought such a place would exist in Mediterranean France?

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We spent two hours walking the trails and taking in the views. The Pyrenees loomed in the background. The trail into the site passes through private land. One of the landowners has decorated the byway with metal sculptures. Here’s one of them.

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A great day!

Paul

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Paulilles – Dynamite!

Posted on October 21, 2015 by Paul

Today the wind arrived. Flags stood starch straight, trees bent, and the skies cleared. The wind was coming from the west, so it came right out of the Pyrenees and out to sea. After going to the public market this morning (disappointing because our favorite vendors weren’t there) we decided to visit Paulilles.

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Paulilles is the former site of an Alfred Nobel dynamite factory built by Paul Francoise Barbe, an associate of Nobel. The plant operated from 1870 to the 1980’s. After closure it was set aside as a protected area to keep it from being developed as real estate. In 2005 the decision was made to raze 70 buildings, renovate 9 buildings, and turn the site into a free ecological and recreational park. Many picturesque artifacts of dynamite production remain.

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However, this is now an ecological and recreational site. The varied trees and plants combine with the sea to create a beautiful park.

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In addition to all that three buildings have been set aside for a non-profit organization dedicated to maintaining the art of Catalan boat building. They build and restore traditional Catalan fishing boats. The organization employs two full time boat builders and volunteers.

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If you visit the Catalan coast, we highly recommend a stop at this park between Port Vendres and Banyuls-sur-Mer. Despite the fact that the clouds moved in we stayed for three hours to soak up the beauty.

Paul

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Trouble On The High Seas

Posted on October 20, 2015 by Paul

Today dawned with promise of sun, but failed to make do with that promise. Instead we got clouds. When I saw young men heading to the beach with boogie boards I thought the sea might offer some entertainment. In the town the winds were calm, but the Mediterranean was showing signs of strong winds to the north and east in the form of huge rollers. These were seas we haven’t seen in Collioure before.

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One sad woman stood on the rocks, surrounded by breaking waves, and tossed roses into the sea. She appeared to be praying and seemed oblivious to the water at her feet.

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However, the greatest drama involved two small sailboats who had ventured beyond the harbor. This was quite foolish on such a day. At times the boats disappeared behind the rollers. Eventually, of course, they both capsized. Righting a small boat in six foot seas is not small feat. Each crew managed to right their boats twice, but both also fell a third time. Zodiacs to the rescue! It provided an exciting 45 minutes for us on the pier.

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The winds finally reached us in late afternoon. Of course the views of the harbor were even more beautiful than usual with the clouds, the mist, and the filtered sunshine.

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Magical!

Paul

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A Walk to the Windmill

Posted on October 19, 2015 by Paul

Today it was cloudy. Despite the recent cloudy and cool weather the oranges continue to ripen outside our window.

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We waited until mid-afternoon and decided to take a hike when the sky became lighter. Our destination was the windmill that sits on a hill/mountain halfway to Fort St. Elme. This is something you have seen in our previous photos, but always as seen from the harbor. It’s a beautiful hike up terraces of olive trees with peek-a-boo views of the harbor, the town, and the Pyrenees.

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Along the hike we met Jean Marie and Marie, a couple near our ages. Originally from Catalan France, they now live in Toulouse and vacation here in Catalonia. We spent a wonderful half hour conversing with them and sharing our histories. They spoke French and Spanish and I speak Spanish (sort of) and English. Jean speaks English and we both speak a very little French. It was great fun trying to switch between three languages in an attempt to explain what we meant. We exchanged contact information and perhaps our paths will cross again in the future.

However, I do not want you to get the impression that all was fun and games today. I also practiced my ukulele…twice.

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I also have done some paintings recently in my continuing attempts at abstracts. Here are the two latest. I’ve been drawn to natural shapes without the details that define the objects.

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Tomorrow the sun is supposed to shine!

Paul

 

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JP and Koko Leave Collioure

Posted on October 18, 2015 by Paul

For the last weekend of JP & Koko’s visit the weather turned grey. Not much rain, but cool and cloudy. Even the dogs have changed into their winter attire.

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We stayed in for the morning and then took a stroll through the old town to catch highlights of the annual Festival of Catalan language and culture. It was colorful and melodic with art, singing, speeches, and boats. After our walk JP and Koko treated us to a wonderful late lunch at L’escale Bleue, a local restaurant. What a terrific meal!

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This morning we were up early. JP and Koko joined us for one last trip to the Sunday market. Then we hopped in our car for the trip to the Perpignon airport. We will see them soon in Seattle.

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Ciao!

Paul

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Ceret

Posted on October 16, 2015 by Paul

Today we ventured to Ceret in Catalan France. This place has become one of the greatest attractions for us in this part of France. Thanks to the efforts of Pierre Brune and other artists this small town has one of the finest modern art museums we have ever seen, Musee d’art Moderne.

Ceret lies at the foot of the Pyrennes, so there also is marvelous scenery to accompany the art.

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We love the collection of the museum – a large donation by Pablo Picasso of ceramics, drawings, and paintings, wonderful paintings by a variety of post-impressionist artists, Dufy, Soutine, Matisse, and so many more. However, today there was a special exhibition by sculptor Jaume Plensa. Friends in Chicago may recognize his name as the creator of a wonderful interactive water sculpture in your fair city. This was our introduction to this wonderful philosopher, poet, and artist. One could stay in a room with one of his installations for hours. They are meditative, thought-provoking, and inspirational. These photos only can hint at the depth of the feelings produced.

Silhouettes is composed of 16 steel figures floating in space, with maxims and verses from poems dear to Plensa. William Blake’s verse sums up the piece: “One thought fills immensity.” Talking Continents consists of 19 pieces comprised of letter of international alphabets. The letters form transparent pebbles on which figure sit in silent and poetic conversation between the different universes and human who live in contact with one another but never really encounter. The pieces are made of the material of our languages. Air, Water, Void features three seated men with their hands over their mouths who are bound together in a silent exchange. The resin figures are illuminated and change colors constantly. The peaceful atmosphere makes one contemplate the silent language and its mystery. Monumental Faces are inspired by the faces of real people the artist has met. He is attracted by their beauty and personality. The closed eyes invite us to dream and meditate.

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We took a rather circuitous path back to our car thanks to my poor navigation. It involved a path down into the river gorge below a 12th century bridge. These are the kind of experiences one can have when you let go a a planned itinerary.

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Ciao!

Paul

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Collioure Artists, Commandos, Chateau Royale!

Posted on October 15, 2015 by Paul

We have enjoyed a couple of days in and around Collioure, shopping, sightseeing, and getting to know some local artists. Marie Opper is a local artist whose work in quite varied, from watercolor and acrylic paintings to collage and glass beads. She is also very friendly and loves to talk about art. Marie’s small shop has a secret garden in it’s depths, thanks to a small alcove open to the sky above. She has filled it with plants and a chair for her own meditation. Jean tried out the chair.

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We have walked around the village with JP and Koko. This helps us discover places we hadn’t found before in our own walks.

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The commandos are ever present in the harbor. Sometimes they are paddling kayaks, other times it’s zodiaks, or they can be seen swimming in full combat gear with life jackets. Today they were jogging through the streets with full packs, life jackets, and fake machine guns while dripping wet from a swim in the sea. It’s quite entertaining. The officers wait on the pier.

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Today for the first time Jean and I visited the Chateau Royale. It is an immense castle in which one can easily become lost. The views of the city and the surrounding mountains are even more beautiful from these ramparts.

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In addition to castle there were two art exhibitions within the walls as well. Artist Anita Garcia’s paintings are bright, colorful, and reflective of Catalan life. Of course I was particularly drawn to her depictions of musicians. What fun!

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And so ends another day in Collioure.

Paul

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